Most people intending walking Levada das 25 Fontes will no doubt find themselves at a car park above Rabaçal off the ER110, 1340 mtrs above sea level.  This valley is possibly one of the most beautiful on the island and one of the most frequented by walkers.  It lies on the western slopes of the Paúl da Serra plateau on the northern half of the central mountain range and is located 4 kms west from the new cross roads at Paúl da Serra.   The car park is a starting point for a number of wonderful walks, not only into the interior of  Rabaçal valley, to Levada das 25 Fontes,  Levada do Risco,  Levada da Rocha Vermelha and Lagoa do Vento, but also for a wonderful walk into the Ribeira Grande Valley culminating in a magnificent waterfall and trout pool. Also by crossing over the ER110 and passing in front of the reservoir and the chapel of Nossa Sra de Fátima, one can walk Levada do Paúl along the southern slopes to the  Cristo Rei statue on the ER209.

Nevertheless, for the purpose of this article let us concentrate on a journey to 25 Fontes, a return distance of  8 miles from the car park with a descent of  c.380 mtrs. The levada is approached via a winding road leading down to  Rabaçal Posto Florestal and from there down a series of steps on a wooded slope until you reach Levada das 25 Fontes.   The route is well signed and the descent is the easy bit, but making the ascent back at the end of a hot day and after much walking, can be a little less so

However, at this point I will let you into a secret, there is a wonderful alternative route via the Calheta tunnel which makes for a more interesting, exciting and almost level walk.   The route is comfortable most of the way and is suitable for most abilities. In fact I took my grandchildren along here last spring and they thought it was “cool” (modern speak of course).

Directions:
From the Rabaçal car park drive a further half a kilometer west to the ER211, a left turn signed Calheta.  Drive 2 kms down the hill to a small clearing on a sharp bend.   Notice the change in landscape as you descend this road changing from rolling moorland flanked by heather and gorse, to pine and eucalyptus forest a little lower down.   There are usually a number of minibuses parked at this spot during the day so it’s easy to find.  From here a wide track leads off to the left into the forest.  Follow this for 10 mins into the next valley whereupon you reach a small water house at the valley head.   The tunnel entrance is just behind this building and the wide entrance is covered in ferns and trickling water.  The tunnel is around 800 mtrs long and takes 15 minutes to negotiate.  You will definitely need a torch and possibly a sweater depending on the weather.  The interior is clean and dry except for an occasional puddle on the path, and has good head room.
On emerging from the tunnel you will come face to face with the lush vegetation of the interior, known as the Laurisilva.    Also take note of a little shrine at the tunnel exit where you emerge onto a flat platform.  From here the path is clear and immediately crosses the Ribeira do Alecrim gorge.   Now follow the Levada das 25 Fontes upstream for 55 minutes until you reach your destination.  After 20 mins you pass steps leading up to the Rabaçal Posto Florestal and Levada do Risco.   A further 5 mins along you cross a bridge over the deep gorge of  Ribeira Grande and soon after descend a series of steps leaving the levada for a short time before ascending another set of steps to a small water house where you again pick up the levada.   From here the path becomes narrower with some precipitous drops but these are mostly protected.   However, the levada at this point runs along a 2.ft  parapet providing a natural hand rail along this section.   Along the whole route, gaps in the vegetation allow magnificent views down the Ribeira da Janela Valley.  The vegetation is dominated by Ancient Tree Heather, Madeiran Bilberry and Laurel and along the route many of these trees are draped in lichen and mosses.   In summer the array of flowers is superb with the endemic Madeira Moneywort (Sibthorpia peregrina) with its little yellow flower, growing in profusion along the levada’s edge. You can also see the  Chrysanthemum Shrub (Asteraceae),  Stork’s Bill (Geraniaceae) and best of all, the endemic Shrubby Sow Thistle (Sonchus fruticosus) growing in the moist ravines. Would you believe that the latter is really a huge dandelion tree and is a real phenomenon. Coming from England most will agree that the dandelion is  much maligned and regarded as a weed.  These here are magnificent..   Arriving at 25 Fontes you will walk into an amphitheatre where water cascades down into pools in a rock basin..  You can scramble over the large boulders in an  area   green with ferns and other vegetation.   The levada can also be followed for a further 10 minutes taking you to its source.

Return is by the same route, and once back through the tunnel on the Calheta side you should take time to admire the wonderful views down the Calheta slopes.   In the distance you will see  Levada da Rocha Vermelha which has also been channelled through a tunnel at a lower level and also the Levada Nova further down still.   Both these  channels, as well as the  Levada das 25 Fontes feed the Calheta Hydropower Station and also provide essential water for  irrigation on the south coast.   From this point it is also  possible to walk down the valley into Estrela da Calheta and to Loreto in Arco, but perhaps this should be left for another day.

(Duration of the walk: 2hrs 40 mins return)

A further 4.7 kms down the ER209 will take you through Estrela da Calheta to the  new road tunnel on the ER101 highway.

Note:-
The indigenous forests of Madeira known as the Laurisilva cover more than 25% of the island and  were classified  a World Heritage Site in 1999 by UNESCO.

Email: shirleywhitehead@talk21.com

Following the opening of the new highway, the west of the island is now easily accessible, Prazeres is only 30 mins from Funchal, and so for my first walk I have chosen a section of Levada Nova.   I say section because  Levada Nova extends some 50 kms along the south west coast of Madeira, from its source above  Ponta do Sol to its termination in Cabo (a parish of Ponta do Pargo at the far western point of  the island).   The channel flows at a height of around 600m and throughout its length the path contours  the southern  slopes of the central mountain range through deep valley heads, narrow ravines  as well as forested and agricultural areas  Over the last two years I have walked the whole of  Levada Nova by breaking it down into manageable sections and so I have come to know the most beautiful, dramatic and isolated  areas which are a joy to walk.

The terrain along the whole of my chosen route makes for comfortable and easy walking with no dangerous or precipitous drops along the way and is suitable for people of most ages and abilities.  With each section (see below) you have a choice of retracing your steps along the levada or returning to your starting point via the ER101 on foot or by bus.  This is a relatively quiet road but if on foot, be warned, unlike the flat levada paths, the road network can negotiate a number of ascents and descents.  Parking is available at the start of each section.

Along most of the trail, the levada is flanked by  bracken,  brambles and gorse and you are immediately aware of the Madeiran Wall Lizards scurrying into the undergrowth..  The levada passes through rural areas on  agricultural slopes and through small traditional farming hamlets with their apple orchards and orange groves. Its traverses numerous valley heads through Pine and Eucalyptus forests and through mixed woodland  with lush vegetation including:-  Oak, Pine, Sweet Chestnuts, Walnut Trees and Mimosa.  Unlike much of the eastern sections of Levada Nova,  the landscape also  opens up to lower shrub land allowing  magnificent views of the sea and coastline along its route. At around the half way point,, the lighthouse at Ponta do Pargo and the village and Ampara come into view.     At this time of the year the flowers are sparse,  but in spring and summer the footpath is flanked with an exuberance of cultivated and wild flowers including Agapanthus and Hydrangea as well as  Honeysuckle, Madeira Stork’s Bill*,  Sweet Violets, Calla Lilies  and Madeiran Bindweed* just to mention a few.  Also  not to be missed is the frequent appearance of damsel flies, Monarch butterflies (Danaus plexippis) and the Clouded Yellow (Colias crocea) flitting between the plants,  In the cooler weather,  the Migratory Locust (Locusta migratoria) can also be seen.   The whole route  is tranquil and peaceful and  I have observed birds of prey and many marine species along this section. The western section of the levada approaching Ponta do Pargo  is much less walked and at this point the mountain slopes also come into view.

Section One –  4 kms  (approx. 50 mins one way) 

Taking the ER101 from Prazeres village, continue by car for 4.8 kms until you reach a left turn signed Fãja do Ovelha/Paúl do Mar (ER223).   The levada crosses the Fajã road approx 100 mtrs from the turn off and can be seen on the right. This section ends where the levada  crosses the ER101 at the second road into Fajã da Ovelha.

Section Two  –  3.6  kms (approx.45 mins one way)

Drive a further 3.2 kms along the ER101 and pass the Panoeste Bar on the right. Following a bend, the levada crosses the road and is picked up at this point. This section ends as the levada  again crosses the ER101 just above a picnic site, on the right below Ampara .

Section Three  – 6.0  kms (approx 1hr 20 mins one way) 

Start from the above picnic site, another 3.5 kms along the ER101.  The walk ends at a water house and storage tank above the village of Ponta do Pargo.  From this spot you will see a semi circular asphalt road on the left and walking it in either direction will lead you down into the village.  Taking the road to the left, you will eventually reach the ER101 at a small pretty chapel, turn right here for the village centre.  The road to the right brings you straight into the centre of the village

If completing the whole walk, you may also wish to drop down to the Farol (lighthouse) and the Miradoura at Casa da Cha. (Allow an extra 20 mins)  ..  The landscape around the Farol  is wild  open grassland, the coastline is magnificent and in spring the wild flowers  are a delight.     For those not wanting to make the 3.0 hrs return journey on foot, a taxi or bus will be available from the village.

Should you prefer a shorter and more relaxed walk I suggest a ramble along the first section between the two roads leading to Fãja da Ovelha and then retracing your steps back to the starting point and perhaps combining the day out by continuing by car along the road into Paul do Mar.  This mountain road which descends steeply  into Paul do Mar is one of the most spectacular in Madeira and along its route negotiates three small tunnels.  Take time to stop at the church of Fajã da Ovelha, a lovely building of Moorish influence with its walled cemetery and date palms.  At Paul do Mar, drive to the far end of the village and take a right fork to the  new harbour, (just before the Jardim do Mar road tunnel).  Once there, feel the buzz of this lovely traditional fishing village; its position beneath the cliffs is stunning.  There are a number of bars and restaurants in the area and a wander through the enchanting narrow streets with the traditional Portuguese architecture is a must. Also spectacular, is the new bronze statue erected on a rock looking out to sea;  a tribute to  fishermen past and present.

Endemic species:

 Madeiran Bindweed (Convolvulus massonii)
Madeira Stork’s Bill (Geranium maderense)

Email:  shirleywhitehead@talk21.com